Added on June 4, 2018 Sara Swanson

June 2018 Gardening Advice

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squash seedling

by Jennifer Fairfield

Last week, as the temperatures started to climb, many people came into the store to get tools, supplies, and plants, all saying “I’m so far behind!” – referring to their gardens, of course. To that, I say – me too! But it’s not our faults. Mother Nature has been really messing with us this spring – lots of cold and snow in April, followed by chilly rain for much of May. It was easy to think that it was too early to be planting anything in the garden, based on the weather. Until of course, last week, when we were suddenly reminded that it was getting late. I had hoped to get a lot done in my garden over the holiday weekend, but I just couldn’t stand being out for too long in that heat. So now I feel like the rabbit in Alice in Wonderland – running around saying, “I’m late! I’m late! For a very important date!”

It looks like we may have the opportunity to get caught up on our outdoor chores this weekend, so here’s what you (and I) should be doing this month:

Veggie Garden:

Get seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, squash, cucumbers, and eggplant in the ground (or in pots) right away, so that they have the necessary time to reach maturity in our short growing season. If they need staking, do that at the time you plant them, so that you don’t risk harming the roots later. Also when planting your seedlings, be sure to add some starter fertilizer to the planting hole before putting the plant in (I’ve been using Espoma’s Bio-tone Starter Plus for years in my garden). It will help get the roots going and reduce the shock of transplanting.
Start a weekly program of spraying your plants with fungicide as soon as you get them planted. We have had a lot of disease pressure the last few years, and there is no reason to think that will be any different this year. Don’t wait until you see signs of disease to start treating, though. It’s too late by then. Spraying from the beginning will help prevent disease from taking hold, and can mean the difference between having a great harvest and not harvesting much at all.
One more thing to do immediately upon planting is mulching. Providing your plants with mulch will help keep the soil temperature and moisture levels even – both of which are important for your plants.
Speaking of moisture, don’t forget to keep your plants watered. An inch of water per week is the general recommendation, but that may need to be adjusted, depending on the weather. Obviously, if Mother Nature is providing the water, you probably don’t need to. On the other hand, if it’s super hot and dry, you may need to give your plants a little extra water to keep them from wilting in the heat. In that case, the best time to water is actually in the afternoon, to help to cool the soil. To help prevent disease, water at the soil, instead of overhead. Using soaker hoses instead of sprinklers means that the leaves of your plants aren’t getting wet, which can help prevent diseases from getting going.
Plant seeds of carrots, bush beans, dill and cilantro every week or two from now until about mid-July. This way, you can be sure to have a continuous harvest throughout the season. Pole beans can be planted all at once, since they produce all season long, but don’t wait any longer to get them planted, if you haven’t yet.
Weeding is an important part of keeping your plants healthy and producing – though I have to admit that it’s not my favorite part of gardening. However, weeds compete for water and nutrients, and they can also be disease carriers. Do a little weeding every time you’re in the garden so it won’t seem so tedious.
Have more questions about growing vegetables in Michigan? Michigan State University’s Extension Service has lots of answers! For tips on watering, weeding, disease and more, check out the vegetable gardening section of their website.

Flower Garden:

Just like in the vegetable garden, it’s time to get going on planting in your flower gardens as well.
Plant summer-blooming bulbs if you haven’t already. This includes dahlias, gladiolus, lilies, begonias and canna lilies.
Wait to trim back the foliage of your spring blooming bulbs, such as daffodils, tulips and alliums, until the foliage has died completely. Although you may be tempted to trim them sooner to tidy up, leaving the foliage will help the bulb use the sun’s energy to feed itself for next year’s blooms.
Plant perennials and annuals now, and keep them deadheaded throughout the season, so they keep flowering. Keep them well-watered too, especially when the temperatures start to climb.
Annuals should be fertilized regularly throughout the season. Producing flowers takes a lot of energy, which uses up a lot of nutrients. Perennials generally only need one application of fertilizer each spring. For both types, a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus fertilizer is best. Too much nitrogen can produce lots of foliage, but not a lot of flowers, and can cause some plants to get leggy and flop over.
It shouldn’t come as a surprise that the secret to keeping your container plantings blooming all summer long is also to keep them fed and watered. As containers fill up with roots, they don’t hold water very well, so you need to be sure to keep them watered. And, since the plants are in a container, they can’t get their nutrients from the soil around them, unless you provide it. Just be careful not to over-water or over-fertilize, especially with chemical fertilizers. Too much of a chemical fertilizer can “burn” your plants – a sure way to kill them. Too much water will drown them.
Set your indoor plants outside for the summer – somewhere where they will be protected from winds and where they will get some filtered sun throughout the day. Houseplants are not used to the direct sun, and can be easily scorched if they are not given a little shade. They will also dry out more quickly outdoors than in, so be sure to increase your watering schedule. And don’t forget to fertilize them!
If you’re a fan of peonies, don’t miss the show put on at the peony garden at the University of Michigan’s Nichols Arboretum. The last report I saw said that the peonies were about 40% in bloom, but you can see the latest update here. If you’ve never been, you really should treat yourself at least once. There are a number of events happening there this weekend, and Saturday looks like ideal weather.
If you’re interested in planting for pollinators, mark your calendar for June 24^th – that’s when MSU will hold its annual Bee-Palooza! The event offers demonstrations, tours, and hands-on activities for all ages.

Trees & Shrubs:

Plant new trees and shrubs early in the month, so they have as much time as possible to get established before winter comes. Be sure to keep them well-watered throughout the growing season, as the newly transplanted are not as good at taking up water from the soil as established ones. “Tree Gators” are a great way to keep your new trees and shrubs watered, with minimal work from you! You fill them up, and the water seeps out slowly, which allows it to be absorbed by the soil, rather than running off.
Water trees and shrubs infrequently, but deeply. You want to encourage the roots to grow deeply, which won’t happen with frequent, shallow watering. Additionally, shallow, frequent watering can cause your plants to suffocate and slowly die.
Be sure your trees and shrubs have a good layer of mulch over their roots to keep them evenly moist, and to prevent weeds. Mulch should extend out to the tree’s dripline (the circumference of the tree’s canopy), but not be placed right up against the trunk.
Don’t fertilize newly planted trees & shrubs – you want them to concentrate on putting down roots, not growing above ground, at this point. You can start a fertilization program for them next spring. For trees and shrubs you planted last year (or in prior years), giving them a bit of fertilizer now will help with leaf production and growth throughout the season.

Lawn:

Have you had a hard time keeping up with mowing your lawn this spring, because of all the rain? You’re not alone! Michigan State University’s Extension service has some tips for dealing with wet grass and the problems all that water can cause.

Birds:

I’ve had lots of activity at my oriole and hummingbird feeders this spring, and I’m apparently not alone! We sold out of oriole feeders at the store a couple of weeks ago (don’t panic – we got more in!). People have been saying that they are seeing orioles in their yards for the first time, or are seeing more of them than ever before. I’m not sure what the explanation is, but I’m happy to see it – they are such beautiful birds. Remember to clean your nectar feeders on a regular basis so that bacteria doesn’t build up. Also, when we have heavy rains, if your feeder isn’t protected by a dome, or isn’t under a porch, you may need to replace the nectar, because it gets diluted, and won’t be as attractive to the birds.
If you don’t already have one, consider putting out a birdbath to provide your birds with a good source of clean water for drinking and bathing. If you have one, make sure you keep it cleaned out and filled with water. Replacing the water every day will be as beneficial to you as the birds – it helps keep mosquitoes from laying their eggs in the water. Another option is to keep the water moving. Birds love moving water, and mosquitoes don’t! Adding a fountain, dripper, mister, or “water wiggler” to the birdbath can bring more birds (they are attracted to the sound of water) and help to reduce the number of mosquitoes.
At this time of year, birds are busy raising their young. While you are out in your yard and garden, keep an eye out for baby birds so that you don’t inadvertently harm them. Should you help a baby bird you see on the ground? Maybe – they may have fallen out of the nest, and be too young to survive, or they may have fledged, and are just trying to figure out the whole flight thing. Cornell Lab of Ornithology offers information on how to decide if they need your help.